Tuesday, April 26, 2011
Pura Vida!
Of course, Pure Life! How else could one possibly describe the riches of this land and the generosity and simplicity of it's people? Costa Rica is vibrant, diverse, and very much alive! I'm typing from a Permaculture farm nestled in the jungle listening to the "song" of frogs - I want to call them toads, but I'm told they are frogs. Their "song" is hard to describe but I figure it's a mix between geese and a whoopie cushion. They respond to each other so once they get going it's hard to hear myself think.
Still, I write to you committed to telling my tale on this wild adventure I began now 3 months ago. I believe I left off my story in the waves, befriending Mama Ocean and all her currents. My Hawaiian born surfer friend, Jen, heard of a place called Pavones, on the Southern Pacific coast of Costa Rica, home of the second longest left hand breaking wave on the planet. We bused it down to no man's land with ease arriving at a very small surf town with scatterings of hostels and cafes and several dozen gringos amongst the local Ticos. We had amazing fish tacos at one of the cafes and since it was Saturday I asked the man behind the counter if there was any music or anything happening that evening and he said, "This is as wild as it gets around here." I turned to look outside to witness two people walking by on the gravel road, one car parked nearby, and an open air bar with about four people inside.
This was Pavones, our home for the next 2 1/2 weeks. Having had very little surfing experience or even interest in my life, it's hard to say why this town in particular struck a cord with my heart. I'm not sure if it was the tranquilo vibes of the town, the other travelers that sought out this location in particular, or the buff surfer bodies I got to observe wearing next to nothing, but there certainly was something there for me. I felt at home and that sense of being in just the right place at just the right time.
You may think I'm going to follow up that statement with some tale of epic adventures or an encounter with a true love, but it was not that externally profound. It was an easeful sinking into myself, into my friendship with Jen, into the Ocean, into my body, and into my inquisition of life, intention, manifestation, and will. Pavones provided the platform for me to open to love and simplicity, trust and syncronicity.
First we landed at Cabinas Carol. From our private garden bathroom, you could watch the mackaws
from the toilet during the day and at night be sharing the shower with sideways moving crabs and teeny tiny frogs. Outside in the garden landscape was noni, star fruit, ylang ylang, bananas, and jack fruit! Have you ever tasted jack fruit? Apparently Juicy Fruit got its flavor inspiration from this fruit and it's true! It's a giant, spiky on the outside, bright yellow and sticky on the inside fruit, with individual pods and large edible seeds. Yum!
We soon befriended Billy, owner of the Casa Tranquilo Hostel across the street (i.e. dirt gravel path). He landed in Pavones about 6 years ago and hasn't left since. Soon he became my surf instructor and we were in the water with on giant 12 foot surf board. Tandem surfing is by far one of the most fun things I have ever done! With his experience knowing which wave to catch and how to keep the board balanced, I was able to stand up and ride several waves with him. One of the first rides, we paddled, caught a wave, stood up, and I said "Now what do I do?" He said, "Now we dance" and we both proceeded to dance the funky chicken while riding a wave. I so wish I had pictures for this part of the blog, but due to the nature of the sport, my camera was far from the water.
Surfing is indeed a full body workout. I had no idea to what extent. Clients and colleagues listen up - all that I have ever taught in Yoga and Pilates is utilized in surfing; core strength is necessary when paddling and standing, shoulder stabilization while paddling, external rotation of the shoulder joint, pelvic loop and strong reaching legs in salambasana while paddling, ferociously strong arms and lats, obliques while turning on the wave, breath (an intense cardio blast), BALANCE, and last, but not least, you're BAREFOOT!! Although there was not one surfer that I saw that couldn't use more pelvic loop (i.e. they are lordodic), I have so much respect for surfing and the ripped bodies it creates.
Unfortunately, I can not proclaim surfer status. I tandem surfed and got thoroughly pummeled and that's about it. Surfing became rich with glorious metaphors for me. How do I move with the tides? How does my determination and will interact with the environment or circumstances around me. How much do I let the current take me and how much do I set my direction? How does fear play a role in the moments I am asked to be bold, bigger, and take a leap of faith? Surfing is an excellent demonstration of the balance we all participate in between will and surrender.
In this world that is so large with so many people, we stay connected through minor degrees of separation. During our time in Pavones, we met about 6 or 7 people that we either knew directly or through 1 degree of separation. Two of those new friends invited us to their land about 5 miles north and another mile into the mountains. My jaw dropped when I saw this place. Perched over the bay of Gulfo Dulce (Sweet Gulf), they have a epic eco-hippie open air home nestled in several acres of jungle and fruit trees. A six burner gas stove, giant refrigerator, dehydrator, VitaMix, Dr, Bronner's, American Spirits, tile mosaic faces in the wall, Buddha and
Ganesh statues, full wall murals of waves, eagles and tucans, and some of the most amazing woodworking I've ever seen, we landed with abundance and joy. We were greeted with a dinner of
freshly cooked fish from the gulf, green papaya salad, and taro root mash and throughout our stay continued to enjoy; new fruits such as rolinia, ice cream beans, sour manderins, square bananas (taste kind of like plantain), as well as coconuts of all ages, pineapple in all forms (fresh, frozen, dried, cooked, pina colada) all from the land that surrounded us.
Some of the best moments from this time were cruising in the land rover feeling the breeze on my face and taking in the scenery, watching our friend Jammin climb a 20 foot coconut tree and harvest about 30 cocos for us or weave baskets and hats out of the palm leaves, and the 3 of us having dance parties at any part of the day or night.
Soon I was one the road again. I left Jen behind to surf it up and set on my way to VerdEnergia, where I still am now. Having heard about VerdEnergia for several years from friends in Portland, I knew I needed to check it out. Nestled deep in the jungle, it was a mission to make my way down there, and totally worth it. I soon met Josh and Yemaya that have been the main force behind the community building, reforestation, and Permaculture implementation that happens on that land. They started the project in 2006 when their beautiful daughter, Kaileah, was just 3 years old.
Since then they have built a beautiful home with a communal kitchen and hang out space, several private rooms and dormitories, a spring fed swimming pool, and a gorgeous dance and yoga studio. Now travelers from around the world (Holland, Finland, Israel, Portland, and more) visit, contribute, learn about living with the land, and create an experience not to be forgotten.
In the 1950s, Costa Rica cut virgin forest to make space for corporate interest in beef production. By air, they dumped a Brazilian grass seed and soon created a problem that will need to be rectified for generations. The roots of trees retain water and the structure of the land. Without the trees, grass takes over, the hills erode rapidly, and soil depletion is inevitable, making it good for not much else than the few cattle that farmers can still make a living from. Since these farmers are deep in the jungle and without many resources, having cattle is not much of an asset to their family if they have no way to transport the cows.
With about 20 acres of rolling steep hills that suffer from deforestation and soil degradation, the team at VerdEnergia is making its best efforts to create a model of sustainability in the hope to not only reforest and fortify its own land, but to also teach local farmers about the options available in natural Permaculture methods. By digging shallow trenches, called swails, horizontally on the contours of a hillside, building up the outer edge with organic material from the land, and planting trees and food crops along that line, they are able to slow the movement of water down the hill and prevent erosion. All the while generating fuel and food for future generations.
The actions in place at VerdEnergia have inspired and motivated me to continue learning about sustainable methods of living, generating resources, and creating lasting community. From digging swails and chopping down trees with a machete to riding horses and making chocolate from cocoa beans, my time at VerdEnergia has been truly deepening and abundant with rich learning. I highly suggest making a stop here if any of you loved ones are ever in Costa Rica.
For now, I travel North again with a new friend, from Oregon strangely enough, named Mateo, to check out the southern part of Nicaragua that I skipped over on my way down to Costa Rica.
I´m getting so excited to return to Portland and see many of you lovely people. I´m thinging I will be back in town at the beginning of June and back to work a few weeks after that. I have much stirring in me about reconstructing my life again and I look forward to reconnecting and enjoying the epic Northwest Summer with many of you! Thanks for all that you are!
Blessings from the South!
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so wonderful to hear your clarity from a distance. love, love, love, love, love, xo mandy
ReplyDeleteLove Love LOVE youuuu Carrie!!
ReplyDeleteSo beautiful to live these experiences with you!
Pavones, or more so, Punta banco, was the magical place which changed my life and has brought me now to Colombia! Heeehee..
Did you meet Lila in Pavones?
Also glad to hear I'll be seeing you in Ptown and around this summer!!!
Blessings!!!!
Carrie, you sound so blissfully happy and alive. Thanks for sharing your world!!! Peace, love and all good thoughts are being sent your way.
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